Green tea, delicate yet distinct, is popular the world over for its refreshing, bright flavours; subtly sweet and varied aromas; often vibrant, green liqours; and acclaimed health benefits. In order to get rid of the enzymes that allow for oxidisation – such as that which occurs in oolongs and black teas – it may be roasted, pan-fried or steamed. It may be cultivated in amongst the mountaintops of Taiwan, or in the lush, coastal regions of Zhejiang Province; it may be grown beneath a penetrative, daylong sun, or in a dark and cooling shade.
The realm of green tea offers tremendous depth and variety, not to mention needles, pearls and flowers, but, as with socks, tops and insurance plans, too much choice can make the selection process tough. So what are the key things you should know when selecting the best green tea?
Just one word. Are you listening?
In 1967’s The Graduate, Walter Brooke’s Mr. McGuire tells Dustin Hoffman’s Benjamin, “I just want to say one word to you. Just one word…. Plastics.” Well if Mr. McGuire had been motivated to discuss green tea with Benjamin rather than investment and booming industry, he would have surely said, “Sourcing.” Forget your gyokuros and your senchas, and cast aside your matchas and dragon pearls, because if your tea hasn’t been properly sourced, expect a significant shortfall in quality – if not in price.
So be sure to turn to a reputable specialist in loose-leaf tea, one that can tell you not just the region of origin, but the precise tea growing estate of origin, also.
No, no, no, yes
Elsewhere, all green tea lovers should be in no doubt that no matter how much in love they are with all those subtle turns and shifts in flavour that the finest green teas offer, there is no reason to enjoy them in isolation. Say yes to eating cake; it’s important to have a good breakfast; nice dinners are nice.
Therefore, if you were attempting to select between a choice of classic Japanese green teas, such as ahoujicha, a supreme senchaand a premium gyokuro,consider at what moment you are most likely to be enjoying that particular delight – the food-tea pairing will have bearing on your experience of that tea. Houjichas are warming and caramelly – perfect for autumn evenings. Senchas are brightly, boldly astringent – excellent for revival during a mid-afternoon slump. Gyokuros are creamy and gently sweet – lovely to try with a biscuit before bed, or for a Sunday morning lie in.
Remember to First Flush
The first flush, or first tea harvest, is widely considered to produce the finest quality tea in most tea varieties. Connoisseurs will often as a result be prepared to search that little harder, pay that little bit more for first flush tealeaves.
That said, all flushes offer something a little different and, as much as first flushes are generally the preferred batch, there’s much pleasure to be gained from appreciating the differences between tea harvests, picking up on distinct notes of taste, scent, tone and texture. So while first flush tealeaves are rightly admired, that’s not to say that this should be to the detriment of what other tea harvests provide.
There is a world of fantastic green teas out there, so although that can make for difficult choosing, take time to get the most out of the selection experience, take a few risks, keep searching out new smells, flavours, liqours and textures, and fall in love with not just the best green teas, but also the discovery of them.